Monday, August 21, 2006

One Last Travel Diary???

Shan, one of my dearest buddies, took one hell of a risk...he travelled all the way from kerala to join me(i actually lied to him i had all things planned!) on one last adventure to see a part of India, we knew till then only from textbooks. The beauty of our trip was that it was unplanned, we barely knew where we were going, if we realized a jeep was going close to our destination, we would hop in, hoping that another vehicle would take us from there closer and closer to yamunotri. When nothing came our way we hiked, the rain-gods seemed intent on accompanying us for the whole trip and ruining it, the cold fear at seeing landslides on every curve wondering which one would take us away, the happiness at seeing a hotel to rest our tired bodies for the night(there were many, thanks to the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd(GMVN), and having a few pegs of whiskey to call it a day. I know the fotos we have here are not the best...i'll need to start a flickr site to upload the scenic ones...here we are the protagonists and our faces had to feature in the snaps...eitherways we both kept squabbling all thru the trip on who was the worser photographer...compressed these pics 20 times over to get it to 50kb!!!

Through Haridwar we reached Rishikesh and the faint beginnings of the Himalayas showed, besides for the first time in my life I set eyes on the Ganga. So majestic from afar, enjoying a position of superiority amongst all the rivers of India, but cursed with a people intent on destroying its aura. The sight of human refuse at the Triveni Ghat which looked so clean in the movies was jarring, the brown colour of the water was disconcerting...just for the sake of it we dipped our hands and feet...will that suffice for my sins to be forgiven?

From Rishikesh, we took a jeep to Dharasu, 100 kms away. The road here diverges into two...one to Uttarkashi, Gangotri and the other to Yamunotri. From Dharasu we get a mini-bus which dropped us at Barkot, the last village/town where civilization as you and i know it sort of ends. From there another mini-bus took us to Hanumanchatti, 80kms away where we decided to cool our heels for the night at a GMVN inn.The snap is from there.

We begin our trek from Hanumanchatti to Janakichatti, 9 kms away hoping a jeep wud pass-by. The scenery from here-on is absolutely breath-taking...the snap here shows Shan all-edgy, next to a cliff, with the Yamuna beneath in all raging fury, with me fumbling with the camera as always. We pass by several locals...all very people, infact we noticed all through uttaranchal the women were hard at work while men mostly hang around tea stalls.

We had walked 2kms and not a single vehicle was stopping for us. The place where we took this snap looked eerily similar to the ones in Yodha. We threw our bags to the floor here and decided to wait for a lift. I saw some kids hard at work here...we had not seen a single school for about 75 kms. Would people in Kerala be able to associate with something like that!

And Behold!...along comes a tractor and the good man in the pic takes us along. It must have been the bumpiest ride of our lives...but we enjoyed it immensely. After all, how many people get to travel on tractors when they are on vacation! The man wouldnt take any money from us...in contrast the rich jeepvalas where charging Rs.15 per head for traversing just 3-4 kms. He lets us off with a warning to watch out for stray rocks falling from above.

Shan mournfully mulls wetting his brand new sneakers...what the hell did he expect...a tarred road!!! The whole place was littered with marble rocks that came down in previous landslides. In that part of the Garhwal, the pavements and milestones are in marble...i sincerely hope quarrying is banned there knowing how expensive marble is elsewhere.

We reach Janakichatti where the road ends, and began a 5km grinding trek to Yamunotri. We huffed and puffed our way up in 3 1/2 hours upto what was a height of 5000mts. Yamunotri is for all purposes a pilgrimage, we had to keep greeting pilgrims with Jai Mata Di, Jai Yamuna Mata, and i forget the other slogans. Young men were taking pilgrims up on their shoulders, on palanquins and ponies which made us trekkers real miserable. The air was thin, we struggled to breathe, the temp must have been 2-5degs, the rain continued to irritate us and foiled our plans to trek further to SaptarishiKund 14 kms away where the actual glacier that feeds the Yamuna and overlooking a beautiful valley of flowers where a mysterious BrahmaKamal flower which has an intoxicating smell and in which Saraswati Devi supposedly resides. We stayed that night at the Kalindi Ashram hotel at Yamunotri and started our return journey the next morning.

If Yamunotri symbolized what must be the most beautiful creation of Nature we set our eyes on, we headed out next to Agra and the Taj where Shah Jahan gave expression to human creativity at its zenith, the sight of which totally blew us away. We were speechless, just gaping at the magnificence in front of our eyes, amazed at the power and the riches the Great Mughals commanded over India...Shan vowed that when he would marry, he would bring his wife here and promise her that he would build her a Taj in 10 years time! I was amused coz my dad used the same line with my mom when he built our home.

The Agra Fort was equally grand, and obviously more subjected to the ravages of consequent invaders like the Afghans, Marathas and the British. Agra was my opportunity to download all my history knowledge on poor Shan, and the good sport he is, was all ears to my chance to show-off! I was dejected to hear that Fatehpur-Sikri the ill-fated capital of Akbar was 80kms away...another place i will have to put off to visit for some other day.

At the end of the trip, the poor guy had lost several kilos, missed his mummy and her food, had got severely tanned, was so sick of roti, sabji and daal and kept muttering he wanted chicken and was crying at the kolam he had become...i was really amused with his woes because i never felt any of it...wandering through so many places and situations, the last many years, had hardened me. I dont know when i'll venture out like this again...so many places still out there that entice me, so many years of life left, yet so little time for things like these. Pops calls me up a few weeks back and jokes..."i tell folks who inquire about you...avan civil service paditham onnumalla, Discovery of India ilaanu"!!!

42 comments:

Arun said...

ah, the first comment is mine!
First feeling that comes to mind: ENVY...Really envious that you guys could visit all these amazing places. And it would have been an awesome company with shan around. If I was in india, would have surely found time to do this one.
Nice recap Jabs.

Thanu said...

looks like u had loads of fun. I so can not travel without anythign planned. I know where I have to go, what I will do and directions and means to get to places.

I admire ppl like you who can just take go and enjoy as it comes

Anonymous said...

haha..good one man!....you didnt put pics from missori ?..geeeez, i hope my wife doesn't read this blog for sure!!!..

and da patti dont forget that i went to pune and khandala after that and u were having a nice cozy sleep in ur room for 2 complete days!!!.. anyways,no worries now, I am in the process of gaining what i have lost... hehe

next we fo for a safari in rajasthan and a bike ride from delhi to ladakh ?

newways back to the real world now with loads of work :(...goto run

cheers
Shan

mathew said...

awesome places..they are places i always crave that i should visit some day!!

Jiby said...

arun, there was a kodak moment in the trip...shan stuck in a marsh...his shiny white shoes ruined...the helpless look he gave was vintage shan!

thanu, the thing is in the us, there's noone on the road we can ask for directions...that i guess is one of the reasons people plan hard! here chaos can be met only with sponataneity.

shan, yeah right...2 days in pune with such good climate, kevins luxurious condo and chilling out at pubs...while i returned to longer blackouts!! but seriously we need to get the whole group together for the next outing...lets hit ladakh! even if ur wife doesnt read this blog I'll tell her to bug you for a Taj...namukkingane okkeyalle sahaayikkaan pattu.

mathew, dont plan...just take a week off and like mohanlal says "chodiche chodiche pokaam"!

quills said...

Wow..looks like you had really had a fab time. I would love to visit these places in your post. I love traveling, and for me, impromptu, sudden spur of the moment trips are as fun as planned ones.

silverine said...

Your Pops got a sense of humor lol
Lovely travelogue and what a coincidence that you and me and Dhanush have all put up travelogues!!
I just love going to historical places and seeing what we learnt in History books...the himalayas look so green and beautiful. Felt so sad to hear about the human refuse in the river. I never understood why we destroy our rivers...our lifelines. On the way to V'kanni you will see people doing everything in the Kaveri including catching water. Disgusting!!!
Great post :)

Jofu said...

Hey Jabs..
Enjoyed reading this :) Paavom Shaan....

How was Shan's Hindi... Kalakkiyo avan.. atho... :D

That tractor walla was good.. Jolly good guy

Heard from Shan that Kevin now has even got a Car.. Full Setup aanu ennokke..

b v n said...

Jiby ,kalakki !!
think like i've got some purpose in life after reading this :)

"glacier that feeds the Yamuna and overlooking a beautiful valley of flowers where a mysterious BrahmaKamal flower which has an intoxicating smell and in which Saraswati Devi supposedly resides" - you'll make even a commie who reads this a mystic...wonderful

at the end of some short trips we actually wud have gone along way...have you checked out "motorcycle diaries" - this trip nearly compares...ride on :)

Mini Krishnan said...

Hello Jibby....Im writing from your father s office. I like the way you ve mixed tourism with social philosophy and made light of all the physical difficulties. Listen up....whatever work you do, keep writing. Maintain an electronic diary. After all TS Eliot worked in a bank while he wrote his epoch-altering poetry. Keep writing and viewing life through unusual lenses

best
Mini Krishnan Editor, OUP India

Jiby said...

quills, even i wud prefer planned trips...but my pals are so laidback we make a mess out of it finally!

silverine, yeah even i noticed the coincidence with we 3 having travelogues up on the same day in our small kerala blog space. I love the ambience of Kanyakumari but the tendency to defecate on the beach is so gross!

jofu, shan's hindi picked up very fast in a few days and soon he was macha-macha with the pahadis!!! and he had lotsa fun at kevins place...i missed that leg of shans adventure.

bvn, the motorcycle diaries has been a big inspiration man...the way movies can influence ur mindset...until then i travelled on luxury coaches and private cars...i realized it wuz more fun using the aam-aadmi's mode of transport! u shud hit uttaranchal next time ur in India...stay away from the hillstations though!

Mini, Thanks a lot. I will keep all you said in mind.

hope and love said...

so u finaly made it..!!
great..!!
but i cant imagine how you hitchhiked like that..!!
entammeeee..!! the journey must have been a real adventure..
!!
:))

Anand K said...

NOW, I am jealous! Hmmpffffffff

You guys just did what I wanted to do for a long time.... backpacking all the way into the mountains. But I just made good friends with a Surd from my class who's a real "mountain goat" ;) He's been all over the Himalayas.... Planning to do a bike-hike trip into the Kumaon soon....

Wait till you see THOSE pics. NJAHAHHAHA..

PS: Shan wants to build the gal he marries a Taj Mahal? Pleej pass on this tounge-mostly-in-cheek sher-o-shayari,

Before Marriage:

Taqdeer hai... magar kismat nahi khulti;
Taj Mahal banana chahta hoon, lekin Mumtaz nahi milti!


After Marriage:

Taqdeer hai... magar kismat nahi khulti;
Taj Mahal banana chahta hoon, lekin Mumtaz nahi MARTI!

Adaab

rajesh said...

Came to your blog for the first time-courtesy your comment on my blog. High quality stuff. Made fascinating reading. Keep at it....

silverine said...

@Anand: ROFLAO =))

"Wah kya sher maara hai!!! ab mumtaz ko bhi maardo" :P

Mind Curry said...

awesome jiby. that must have been so much fun. i am longing to go on a similar trip to himalayas with my pal. but its been over one year since we had the idea. think i have to just go to his house, yank him and get going.

really loved the way you have described the journey.great.

Anand K said...

@ Silverine:
22 ex-Mumtazes of mine sleeps with the fishes now, wearing cement kimonos! No Taj Mahals for them sans the reefs that are being woven by the kind sea, around their mortal remains.
You picked Bluebeard himself, my loves.
NJAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA....
>:D

Nabeel said...

great pictures mate .. love the taj mahal one .. :)

Dhanush said...

Unplanned trips are interesting since we dont know what our route is, even though we may have a vague idea about it. Even more scary is if you are on a bike and have lost the way and that too at night. I had both ;)

Nice one Jiby, now only I came to know that there is something called Yamunotri also.
I dont know when i'll venture out like this again...so many places still out there that entice me, so many years of life left, yet so little time for things like these.

That's the problem I guess we all have rt? so little time for things like these... :) Keep Travelling and Keep Posting

Arjun Ramakrishnan said...

great! would live to do similar trips in the future... actually I live so close to Himalayalas and yet haven'et ventured out yet to explore the magic. Shame.... but then so much of life left as you say........

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